TThe TileTracker patented tiling system was designed based on a number of experiences.  This was from things like damage while working on walls and whats behind them like electrical wiring and pipe work when battening.

The other issues came from a change in the tiles available, especially with the size of tiles becoming bigger causing bowing and uneven work when allowing the work to set.

This system has provided for a solution to these issues and then some.  TileTracker prides itself on what it can do for safety, no more drilling in to walls, which now means not going through electrical wiring and pipe works. These can be very expensive to repair when it happens, but not anymore.

In addition to safety it also reduces waste, no more timber and screws to be bought anymore and thrown away after use.  Now there is a practical system, that is easy to use, setup and finish a job perfectly even if you might have got the start wrong.

The TileTracker is so easy, you attach clamps, sit it against the wall, put a level on the rail and then adjust using the screw legs.  What happens if you forget to level it though and you already have a course or two of tiles on there? Simple, put your level on the rail infront of the tiles and adjust while wet.  Tests have shown that a whole wall can be shifted after being put up no problem.

1Once you have all of your walls ready and prepared as required and laid out for tiling, you are almost ready to begin. With the first TileTracker rail suitable for the wall length, run it from the centre marking out towards the corner at the required height from the floor. Do the same across your other wall from the corner so that both rails meet accordingly.

2Place a spirit level in the centre of each rail and using the precise adjustable handles to alter the height at each end of the rail.  Do this one by one until you have them correct.  It is worth spending a little extra time getting this right, but they can still be adjusted with courses of tiles setup already while the adhesive is still wet.  Just in case you make a mistake.

3From the centre line now you can start tiling out towards your corner with the planning done before step one. When you get to your corner it may require you to cut your tile with a tile cutter to the required width to fit, unless you are lucky enough to have a wall that works perfectly with your tiles.

4Now you can firmly press your tile in to the adhesive and use a tile spacer (UNIPLUG) to create the required spacing between each of your tiles. Once your first course of tiles are in place, you can safely move on to the next leaving the batten in place and continue right up to the roof edge.